The Urban Myth of the 'Small City': How to Really Explore Cuenca and Its Amazing Backyard

Hi, Javier V. here.

When people talk about Cuenca, Ecuador, they often mention its colonial charm, its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and its beautiful architecture. All of that is true. However, there’s a recurring theme that I’ve found to be both true and misleading: the idea that Cuenca is a small city you can 'finish' quickly.

Yes, it is compact. I can personally attest that I've longboarded across its longest side, from West to East (downhill, of course), in a mere 25 minutes, even with stopping for traffic and intersections. Coming back up? Let's just say that same 25 minutes requires good legs, lungs, and a strong will. While cruising the city is easy and fast, a word of warning: the unfortunate local culture of litter means you have to be extremely careful with debris that can stop a longboard dead in its tracks. I’ve ended up as my own human brake on the pavement more than once!

The point is, the historic center and core attractions—like the beautiful Pumapungo ruins, which can take a leisurely half-day, or the largest parks—can quickly be checked off a weekend list. If your visit extends beyond simple food tourism or souvenir shopping in the El Centro, you will quickly find yourself looking for more.

The real key to a rewarding short, mid, or long-term visit to Cuenca lies in the breathtaking destinations within a one-hour trip from the city center. Let’s dive into the best of Cuenca’s amazing backyard, starting with the most popular and moving out to the more remote treasures.

Turi is more than just a lookout; it's a parish with its own history. Its name comes from the indigenous word kuri, which means "gold," and according to Inca history, the mountain itself was a place of adoration.

• El Mirador (The Lookout): Situated just 10 minutes from the city center, this is Cuenca’s signature viewpoint. You can take a relatively quick, scenic walk up the stairs to a higher point, passing small stores and restaurants along the way. While it doesn't offer a deep "country" feel, it's a great spot for clean air, a refreshment, a quick snack, or even a full meal. Be mindful of pricing; anything over $9 USD per person is likely overpriced for the local fare, but options are available for all budgets. You can easily find a coffee or enjoy a traditional canelazo (a local fruity spirit).

• Iglesia de Turi (Church): Named Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Turi, this church was built in 1923 with adobe walls and brick-and-lime domes. It’s a beautiful spot, but be aware that it's typically only open for early morning mass and specific Catholic holidays, remaining closed most of the day.

• Kids and Adult Attractions: For a bit of modern fun, Aventuri offers simple but nice thrills, including a large swing that extends far over the platform, giving you the exhilarating impression of swinging over the city. For a larger green space, Natur Hotel provides camping, horse riding, and elegant glamping domes, which make for a lovely overnight stay.

• El Señor de Belén (Shrine): The parish also has a shrine to El Señor de Belén (The Lord of Bethlehem), a figure of the Son of God crucified with four nails, built directly into the mountain rock. This powerful, stone-sculpted figure is a reminder of the historical adoration style in this sacred location.

• Getting There: Turi is only 5.3 km from El Centro. A taxi is a low-budget, convenient option, costing up to $4 USD. Alternatively, you can take the Bus #11 along Solano Avenue or use one of the private tour buses departing from the Parque Calderón area.

For animal and nature lovers, the Amaru Biopark and Zoo is a must-see. This zoological organization focuses on environmental conservation, offering a unique experience with animals and plants that are part of Ecuador's natural and cultural wealth.

The biopark's facilities and themed areas aim to inspire knowledge and protection of the country’s biodiversity. Here, you can enjoy watching a variety of animals, including birds of prey, spectacled Andean bears, Andean condors, tapirs, pumas, and even African lions.

• Logistics Alert: While the park is less than 15 minutes from the urban area, getting there can be tricky. There is a major construction project involving an overpass and road distributor at the foot of the hill leading to the zoo. We strongly advise taking a cab or private transportation. The nearest bus stop will still leave you a 20-minute walk away, which would require crossing the highway—something we highly request you avoid in Ecuador for safety.

Located deeper within the Turi parish, Ictocruz Megapark, also known as “El Altar Cuencano,” is a spacious park offering more rugged outdoor activities than the main Turi lookout. It is renowned for its beautiful landscape, especially at night.

• Activities: Ictocruz is a great place for walking, resting, or having a picnic. For adrenaline junkies, there is a dedicated Down Hill cycling track, and the entire megapark is perfect for hiking/senderismo.

• Details: It is located 7.3 km from the Turi Parish center, about a 20-minute trip, and sits at 2,858 meters above sea level ($9,377 feet).

• Schedule and Cost: Open weekdays from 2:30 PM and weekends from 10:00 AM. Entry is just $1 USD per person.

Located deeper within the Turi parish, Ictocruz Megapark, also known as “El Altar Cuencano,” is a spacious park offering more rugged outdoor activities than the main Turi lookout. It is renowned for its beautiful landscape, especially at night.

• Activities: Ictocruz is a great place for walking, resting, or having a picnic. For adrenaline junkies, there is a dedicated Down Hill cycling track, and the entire megapark is perfect for hiking/senderismo.

• Details: It is located 7.3 km from the Turi Parish center, about a 20-minute trip, and sits at 2,858 meters above sea level (9,377 feet).

• Schedule and Cost: Open weekdays from 2:30 PM and weekends from 10:00 AM. Entry is just $1 USD per person.

Venture about 45 km southwest of Cuenca to the town of Girón, and you'll find the majestic Chorreras de Girón, known as "El Chorro" (The Spout). This mountain forest ecosystem features two distinct waterfalls.

• First Cascade: This impressive drop is about 70 meters (230 feet) high, forming a natural, crystalline pool at the bottom. It’s a peaceful spot surrounded by unique flora like mosses, ferns, and orchids. You can also spot local fauna, including Andean bats, foxes, and hummingbirds.

• Second Cascade: Located much higher up the mountain, reaching this second cascade requires an intense, approximately four-hour hike.

• The Main View: The view you will encounter upon approach is actually the base of the third section of the falls, which descends from the mountain and splits as it comes into view.

• Logistics and Cost:

  • Cuenca to Girón: A bus from the Cuenca terminal is only about $1.50 USD.

  • Girón to The Falls: From the town of Girón, you can rent a pickup truck ($5.00 USD) or enjoy an hour-long walk to the entrance.

  • Entrance Fee: $2.00 USD for general admission ($1.00 USD for seniors).

• Amenities: You'll find basic services, including cabins for lodging and food, making it a comfortable place to spend a day or more.

Located about 64 kilometers (40 miles) southwest of Cuenca in the canton of San Fernando, Busa Lake Park is an ideal spot for camping, whether you're alone or with a group.

This beautiful area offers a wealth of recreational options:

• Recreational Zone: Visit the recreational area with children’s games or set up a barbecue in the open-air grilling areas.

• Hiking and Biking: Explore well-marked trails that wind through wooden pedestrian bridges, trees, and rocks.

• Adventure Sports: The lake’s edge features a volleyball court and a cycling route. For a greater thrill, you can climb the nearby Cerro San Pablo and even descend via paragliding!

• Amenities and Logistics: The access road is excellent for vehicles. Restaurants and cafeterias are available, but camping is a popular option (note: there is a fee for camping, and spots may be shared). Public buses run a route from the Cuenca terminal, but for convenience and comfort, private transport is suggested.

When people say "El Cajas," they often refer to the entire vast, high-altitude páramo ecosystem that begins just 15 minutes outside of Cuenca on the road to Guayaquil. This landscape is genuinely massive, covering an estimated over 140,000 hectares of hills, valleys, and glacial lakes.

• The Official Park (La Toreadora): The easiest way to get to the main base of the National Park is to take a bus directly from the Cuenca land terminal. This official, municipality-administered area has installations for resting, information, and a place to eat. It is well-maintained and has marked trails.

• A Serious Warning: The park's immense extension is beautiful but can be deadly. There have been several serious incidents in recent years:

  • 2025: A mountaineer was lost for five days and tragically passed away during his rescue.

  • 2024: A group of 10 hikers was lost for over 30 hours before being located.

  • 2018: Two fishermen were safely found after being lost for two days.

  • Always take the trails seriously and carry the necessary navigation tools.

• The Bigger Cajas: The ecosystem extends far beyond the official boundaries. Many of the estancias (hostels/restaurants) in the greater Cajas area have their own "backyard entrances" to the wilderness. These properties often offer:

  • Picnic and Hiking Areas.

  • Fishing: Ponds and lakes for fishing, with gear available to rent. You pay for the trout you catch and can have it served fresh in the restaurant.

  • Informal Trails: You can roam freely through these vast extensions of hills. Critically, if people get lost in the National Park (which has signs and marked trails), you are at even greater risk of getting lost in these unmarked, unofficial entries to the Andean wilderness. Exercise extreme caution.

As you can see, the beauty of Cuenca is that while the city center is small enough to be easily explored, the surrounding region offers a lifetime of adventure. The true secret to enjoying a full, rich experience, regardless of the length of your stay, is knowing how and where to go next.

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